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In 1879, the independent Zulu Kingdom was seen by British authorities as an obstacle to creating a unified South Africa; so after a perfunctory request that the Zulus dissolve their army – rejected, of course – the redcoats were sent in. My great-great-grandfather was, according to family legend, one of those men in the 24th Regiment of Foot ( 2nd Warwickshire Regiment cape town lodge ) who found themselves in what is now KwaZulu-Natal province, in eastern South Africa. The battlefields are far from the region’s main tourist draw. The province is home to some extraordinary safari reserves and beaches – especially around Durban, South Africa’s manic second biggest city. There is also the ’Berg – the verdant Drakensberg mountain range bordering Lesotho. Stepping away from all that history on a Durban beach (Getty Images) But with the right guide, a visit to this place illuminates a shared piece of British and South African history that is little-known in the UK – all set against a stunning natural landscape that would have felt like Mars to the soldiers of the 42nd. Barry has worked along KwaZulu-Natal’s history trail long enough to have met the South African president, Jacob Zuma, back when he was the local state minister for tourism. He’s seen the battlefields change over time – they once played host to a taxi rank for tourists and quite a bit of rubbish. But now, cleaned up, they are truly a sight: plains and savannah that stretch out to meet blue-grey mountains, with history and blood in the soil. 8 things I learned from climbing Kilimanjaro Is Zulu accurate? The answer is fairly simple: “No – apart from the basic outline of events.” It wasn’t even filmed nearby; the producers instead shot in the Drakensberg mountains, hundreds of miles away – well away from modern Zulu tribal lands (the filming took place at the height of the apartheid regime). Barry now works with Isandlwana Lodge – the only tourist accommodation based right on one of the battlefields.
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